Buying a cashmere scarf or sweater was once a pricy purchase, but the cost of the luxe fabric has gone down in recent years. And according to NPR, the reasons why aren’t so great. They caught up with landscape ecologist Ginger Allington, whose research has tracked something of a vicious cycle with cashmere goats in Central Asia, northern China, and Mongolia.
Allington calls goats efficient browsers and grazers. Not only do they eat a whole lot more than other livestock common to the region, but they do so with vigor. In Mongolia, 58% of the rangeland has been compromised, with 23% classified as heavily or fully degraded. As goats graze in poorer conditions, they end up growing lower quality coats.
On the consumer side, Allington notes that all people see is a lower price tag. She laments some marketing of cashmere, which she says hints at sustainability and quality, while the truth is just the opposite. The global market is projected to grow to $4.4 billion by 2030, and she believes there is little pathway to making the fabric sustainable.
Allington suggests buying other types of fabrics or going vintage, where you are more likely to score a higher quality product. A lot of the used, older cashmere that you can buy on eBay and from thrift stores — that’s much likely a much higher-quality sweater that’s going to last a lot longer, she tells NPR.
The decline in the cost of cashmere may sound appealing to consumers, but there is a hidden cost that goes beyond the price tag. NPR has shed light on the complex issue surrounding the decrease in cashmere prices, highlighting the detrimental impact it has on the environment and goat herders in Central Asia, northern China, and Mongolia.
Landscape ecologist Ginger Allington has conducted extensive research on the subject, uncovering a concerning cycle that involves the degradation of grasslands and the declining quality of cashmere wool. As the grasslands deteriorate, cashmere goats produce coarser and lower-quality wool, which fetches less money on the market. In response, herders add more goats to their herds, perpetuating the cycle.
The environmental consequences of this cycle are significant. Allington explains that goats are voracious eaters, degrading the habitat and causing soil erosion by consuming plants down to the roots, preventing regrowth. Mongolia, a prominent source of cashmere (accounting for 40% of global production), has already witnessed the compromise of 58% of its rangeland, with 23% categorized as heavily or fully degraded.
While consumers may think they are benefiting from the reduced prices of cashmere products, Allington emphasizes that the reality is quite different. Marketing often portrays cashmere as a sustainable and high-quality fabric, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. The global cashmere market is projected to grow substantially, reaching $4.4 billion by 2030.
According to Allington, finding sustainable pathways for cashmere production seems challenging, but there are alternatives for consumers who wish to contribute to positive change. She suggests considering other fabric options or opting for vintage cashmere products, which are more likely to be of higher quality and durability. Second-hand cashmere items, available on platforms like eBay and in thrift stores, offer the opportunity to own a long-lasting, higher-quality sweater.
It is essential for consumers to understand the hidden costs associated with cheap cashmere. While the lower price tag may seem appealing, it comes at the expense of environmental degradation and the livelihood of herders. By making informed choices and supporting sustainable alternatives, individuals can contribute to a more responsible and ethical fashion industry.
